茶葉青茶餐茶

異彩秀異 味覺樂園 Extraordinary Paradise of Taste ①

上米其林餐廳用餐,同時開五瓶法國五大酒莊紅酒,這樣的品飲用餐是富豪人生?然後呢?

將五大酒莊的葡萄酒對上五大岩茶, 十四位愛茶、愛酒同好,面對一百四十個杯子,每人十個杯,各有五款茶、酒, 能經由想像共築味覺樂園,找到東西品飲文化異彩的味蕾驚喜!

這是史上首次的名酒好茶共好,卻秀出茶與葡萄酒雷同的地方,用一樣心情去了解,從天候、地理環境、製茶師/ 釀酒師,那麼品茶、品酒很容易是一家親。

天候影響葡萄酒跟茶的好壞,讓葡萄酒有好年分跟壞年分,茶則不會分的這麼細, 茶在天候的影響,會在人為因素裡克服。

有功夫克服天候影響為茶帶來好滋味, 可是到目前為止,製茶師與釀酒師地位還是非常懸殊,製茶師很少出現在茶的標誌上,釀酒師卻是行銷賣點之一。

釀酒師是專業肯定也是酒莊百年打造的信譽,茶可以像紅酒被世界推崇?那麼,學習紅酒行銷外,就是要靠新興行業侍茶師在餐茶服侍中,搖身成為侍酒師的角色。具體而言,能夠清楚將紅酒和不同茶種互相對比,利用共同山頭氣的說清楚、喝明白就是踏出侍茶的第一步。

以五大酒莊酒的特質,去搭配不同的中國茶區,找到雷同的山頭氣:五大酒莊的2014 年Château Lafite Rothschild 細膩如絹,與閩北武夷2019 百年水仙的滑順共好;1985 年Château Mouton-Rothschild 是波亞克(Pauillac)產區的,其酒具足了植物的皮味,用2019 年牛欄坑肉桂的香味與之對比。

When it comes to luxury, dining in a Michelin-star restaurant while enjoying five bottles of red wine from the five first-class Bordeaux wineries is a hard act to follow.

For 14 tea or wine lovers, each of who is served with five types of wine from the five first-class wineries and types of rock tea at the same time, finding an extraordinary taste paradise constructed with the common fragrance of Western and Eastern drinks might come as a surprise.

While tea and wine may seem an odd pairing, they have many similarities.

Cultivating both requires masters attuned to the idiosyncrasies of geography and weather, and the tasting cultures of both share some common bonds.

Wine, depending on weather, can be divided into good birth years and bad years. The influence of weather on tea, however, can be eliminated by man.

Even though tea masters are able to make good tea without becoming too fazed by the weather, they have a very different social status from winemakers. Tea masters are rarely shown on tea labels whereas winemakers are regarded as part of the marketing strategy.

Winemakers are not only professionals but also represent hundred-year-old brands built by wineries. Can tea be held in the same esteem as wine around the world? If this were the case, a tea sommelier, just like a wine sommelier, would be required during a meal, in addition to a wine-like marketing strategy. In particular, the first step in tea serving is to contrast wine with tea of different flavors through common fragrances.

The five first-class wineries in France and different tea production areas in China were found to share common fragrances when being matched with each other according to their features. For example, the delicate taste of 2014 Chateau Lafite Rothschild is connected to the smooth aroma of 2019 Wuyi Rock Tea; 1985 Château Mouton-Rothschild from Pauillac, full of plant skin bouquet, is associated with 2019 Cinnamon of Niu Lan Keng.

【本文刊載於 Apr. 2020 | Vintage Square】

 

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