茶葉青茶餐茶

異彩秀異 味覺樂園 Extraordinary Paradise of Taste ②

五大酒莊中的2008 年Château Latour, 具有陽剛的厚度,武夷山的鐵羅漢,以其鮮明的苔蘚味,正和Château Latour 的餘味(Aftertaste)貼近,可品出茶的山頭氣和酒共同具有的餘味。

另外,2008 年Château Margaux 具足的厚度,如同2019 年武夷岩乳,在經過上顎堆起焦碳香,與Château Margaux 味道撞擊非常有趣;2004 年Château Haut- Brion 細緻入口渾圓,如同白雞冠,保有中度發酵的特色,入口轉成穿透的細膩。

五大酒莊配上五種岩茶,雙方都有茶區、酒區的山頭氣,葡萄酒友以此品味去愛上好茶一點都不難。

值得注意是用某一種酒比喻茶,看來很容易入門,卻不夠細化,也很容易引起不同的解讀。

茶酒兩相依,而米其林日籍主廚高山英紀(Hideki Takayama) 以茶入法菜, 本身多元文化背景,創作的蔬果千層佐酪梨醬汁, 或用Château Lafite Rothschild 或品用百年水仙,千層蔬果層層綻放令人始料未及。

松葉蟹‧ 蟹膏燉蛋‧ 蟹乳沫的三重組合,堆疊之間有神隱臺茶的基底;嫩煎鴨肝佐爐烤香料茶香蘋果與蜜漬洛神花, 主菜的鴿肉或牛肉,除了用紅酒習以為常的佐餐,或換上茶?你會選哪一款。

這不只是一場以茶為師,華麗變身的秀異晚宴,而是富豪人生極致的味蕾體驗, 更是臺灣餐飲醞釀侍茶師的啟動。

The aftertaste of 2008 Château Latour, which gives out a strong flavor, is close to the strong moss-like taste of Wuyi Tie Luo Han rock tea, showing that a similar aftertaste is found in both tea and wine.

The full-bodied 2008 Château Margaux tastes like 2019 Wuyi rock tea, which leaves a coke aroma in the mouth while passing through the upper jaw; the 2004 Château Haut-Brion tastes as fine as Bai Ji Guan tea, which is known for moderate fermentation and a penetrative flavor.

When the five first-class wineries in France are matched with different tea production areas in China, wine lovers will find it easy to fall in love with premium tea for its fragrance and shared characteristics with wine.

Michelin-starred chef Hideki Takayama, who is Japanese with a multicultural background , adds Château La fite Rothschild or hundred-year-old Wuyi Rock Tea to his fruit and vegetable melaleuca with avocado sauce. Each layer of fruit and vegetables gives out a surprising taste.

The mix of snow crabs, steamed eggs with crabs and crab cream is based on Taiwanese tea. Pan-roasted foie gras is served with roasted apple and pickled rosella. Diners also have a choice of main courses (pigeon or beef), and tea or wine.

This is a lot more than a splendid dinner full of tea art. In fact, it is an extremely luxurious taste experience that raises the curtain on tea sommeliers in Taiwan.

【本文刊載於 Apr. 2020 | Vintage Square】

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