用一道出自法國二星餐廳「Restaurant La Pyramide」主廚Patrick Henriroux 的拿手菜《海蚌與咖哩花椰菜佐綠蘋果凍與柚子》如何佐茶？多樣食材處理成細塊，初咀嚼翻湧海蚌鮮味，接著出場咖哩的刺激感，揉進了蘋果、柚子芬芳酸味。先佐以Charles Dufour 粉紅色香檳Bistrøtage Rosé B.11 帶著酵母味，香檳配海鮮是王道？殊不知以臺灣杉林溪著蜒烏龍茶才見高手在茶！
In a Michelin-starred restaurant, the sommelier explains the different winepairing philosophies for seafood and meat, explaining in depth wine grape varieties,
ingredients, and details of the winemaker.Nowadays, instead of wine, the same ritual is also done for tea, with passionate diners invited to explore a diverse combination of tea and food. A new Michelin dining fashion is emerging.
So, how do you do tea-pairing fair chef Patrick Henriroux’s well-known dish “Coquillages et Rémoulade de Chou Fleur au Curry Vert”? The dish from the twostarred La Pyramide restaurant consists of a variety of diced ingredients. The taste of the seashells comes first, followed by the curry, and then hints of apples and grapefruits. If you believe this dish needs to be paired with a glass of Champagne by Charles Dufour, the Bistrøtage Rosé B.11 is already an excellent choice. But wait until you try to pair the dish with bug-bitten oolong tea planted in Central Taiwan’s Nantou county.
Aged for five years and boiled in 100-degree water, the amber-colored tea tempts with its honey and floral fragrances, wandering between seashell and curried cauliflower. The sensation from the spices is somehow tamed by the tea and thus creates a new rhythm on the taste buds.
To do a tea pairing, you could ask the restaurant to prepare a tea selection, or you could also come up with a tea list based on the menu and become a tea sommelier yourself. To pair egg ravioli, you need to think about three layers of sensations inter twined: silky ravioli with wild mushrooms on top of Iberico ham.
Pairing with bug-bitten oolong tea, which is almost like a fully-fermented black tea, the freshness of the tea transforms into flavors of ripe fruit after roasting. Together, the thick sauce made from porcini mushrooms and the rich, savory taste from the ham bring out the texture of the tea.
【本文刊載於 Jun. 2020 ｜ Vintage Square】