兩道主菜，一是《香煎日本鮟鱇魚》，有紅蔥麵包粉、苦菊苣、松子脆餅及酸紅甜菜醬汁， 鮟鱇魚表皮微脆帶著火氣，肉質肥嫩多汁，透過紅蔥麵包粉和苦菊苣提味，沾上酸紅甜菜汁，引以為傲的一級莊園愛侶園的Robert Groffier Pere & Fils酒莊2017 年LES HAUTS DOIX vs 2018年水金龜岩茶，擦出什麼火花？
雖然是2017 新年分，經由醒酒入口帶著松露厚重香氣，與鮟鱇魚一點都不違和，尤其當松子接觸到牙齦時，意外地與黑皮諾（Pinot Noir）微細單寧產生了卿卿我我纏綿，鮮魚和黑皮諾紅酒可相容呀！
如何用一道茶與相配的葡萄酒分庭抗禮？ 2018 年武夷茶水金龜，泡得比較淡，鮮魚以輕發酵的茶，百無一失；然而香煎魚類，魚肉味道較重，以三進三出的武夷岩茶，運用獨有的焙火香柔和魚肉香煎氣息，是西方料理與東方茶的巧妙邂逅。岩茶的岩骨花香卻能讓魚肉滋味昇華，鮮魚與岩茶相近如賓，各自表述，卻在結束時岩茶尾韻回馬槍給魚肉鮮甜加分。
《爐烤澳洲乾式羊肋排》佐LES HAUTS DOIX 2017 輕微單寧和羊肉纖維構成肉鮮酒香的渾圓融合，不愧是紅酒速配紅肉的定式。然而用到茶的時，水金龜要泡的比平常濃厚一倍，飄來陣陣苔蘚味，如入霧氣瀰漫苔蘚鋪地的山澗，咬下羊排，就像突然發盛開於眼前的花朵，正是此處最耀眼的招攬者。
You may wonder why tea seems to pair better than wine. In fact, pairing is never absolute but dependent on the compatibility between the drink and food. Different cooking styles and ingredients bring out all kinds of possibilities, resulting in a fun pairing. How you make the tea, or at what temperature you drink it adds even more variation.
Coming up next, we have got two main dishes from the Restaurant La Pyramide:“Pan Fried Monkfish” and “Australian Rack of Lamb.” The former features juicy monkfish with its skin crisply fried. On the side, there are pine nuts, chicory, beetroot sauce and red shallots. The recommended wine for pairing was a 2017 Les Hauts Doix by Robert Groffier Pere & Fils, Les Amoureuses. As for tea, a rock tea named Golden Water Turtle from the year of 2018 was selected.
Although 2017 is still relatively young for a Premier Cru wine, the truffle aromas were in harmony with the monkfish. In particular, the pine nuts and the light tannins from the pinot noir grapes made for magical partners. After all, fish and pinot noir are perfect bedfellows!
How was the tea in comparison to the wine? It’s a pretty safe bet to pair fish with a light brew of 2018 Golden Water Turtle tea from the Wuyi mountains. Pan-fried fish gives a stronger sensation and therefore brewing the tea repeatedly to generate a unique roasty flavor goes well with the fish. This subtle encounter between Western cuisine and Oriental tea allowed both to showcase their own characteristics. Ultimately, the rock tea brings out and even upgrades the freshness of the fish.
Now let’s try the wine with the Australian rack of lamb which was paired with LES HAUTS DOIX 2017. Pairing red meat with red wine has long been a guaranteed winner, and here is no exception. The light tannins compliment the lamb. When paired with tea, the tea should be brewed extra strong, until it smells like a sort of mountain moss, as if you are walking along a mountain stream in haze with the trail covered in moss. Biting into the lamb rack is like discovering a flower in full blossom, making it the most impressive moment of the journey.
The dining table has become a more colorful with the participation of tea. Whether it’s a dinner for two or for a group , it’s an extendable fugue with various ingredients accompanied by tea.
【本文刊載於 Jun. 2020 ｜ Vintage Square】